Black and White Photography, Joseph, New York, Photography

You Asked For It – Techniques For Better Images

Today I would like to discuss some techniques that you might find useful (or maybe not). This is not going to be technical in any way so there will be no calculations or math of any sort. Now that I got that out of the way hopefully most of you will stick around and read the entire post.

Different lenses have different angles of view (remember we discussed this in a previous post), and one of the most difficult lenses to master is the wide angle lens.

Why do you say that Joe ?  

Most people approach wide angle photography the same way as if they had a 50mm lens on their camera and most times they are unhappy with the resulting images. Wide angle lenses don’t really work too well when they are used in a point and shoot fashion. The angle of view is way to wide and the resulting images have no impact because everything looks so small in the photo.

Let me show you the first example which was taken with a Tokina 12-24mm f/4 lens. I just pointed and shot the photo. All of the examples will be in black and white so I don’t distract you with colors.

WideAngleOne

As you can see in the above photo there is no impact or point of interest. Everything on the horizon is tiny and there is a picnic table covered with snow smack in the middle of this shot (don’t panic over the snow these were taken last winter). Now lets try using our feet and move around a little bit (I know zooming is easier). I would like everyone to get used to looking at a scene and moving around it looking at it from different angles. One of the first lessons I learned way back in the dark ages when I studied photography was to photograph one object from every angle I could think of. Now lets take a look at the next example which was taken with the same lens.

WideAngleTwo

What do you think ? This photo has a lot more impact and all I did was take a few steps forward and use a slightly lower shooting angle. When shooting with wide angle lenses it is always good to have an object in the foreground being the depth of field is so great. Lets take a look at another example with The Tokina 12-24mm lens.

WideAngleThree

I guess this photo would work for a casual snapshot but there is really no point of interest or impact from this angle. Yes its sharp and the clouds are nice but thats about it. Now lets see what happens when we take a couple of steps to the left toward the rocks.

WideAngleFour

Notice the three large rocks to the lower left. They are the same rocks as the previous image so all I did was move a little bit to the left and used the rocks to sort of anchor the image or add a little more impact.

If you will take the time to approach common objects and use about 10 minutes of your time to move around them and take photos from all different angles and varying heights I will guarantee your image will improve. Next time you go out shooting try it. I bet the first image you take won’t be the keeper after you see the same object from different angles.

Lets try another example this time using a Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 lens.

WideAngleFive

This photo was taken on a foggy morning at a local park. I used a lower angle and I thought this image would be the keeper. After taking various images of the same scene from different angles and distances I liked the image below.

WideAngleSix

In this scene I moved back a little and stood on a large rock to get a higher angle. To my eyes this is a little more like I saw that day before looking through the viewfinder. The flow of the trees through the scene look a little smoother to me also.

Sometimes getting a better shot has nothing to do with moving around. In this example I will use the same lens and shoot the scene in landscape mode (not the camera setting but the orientation). Lets take a look.

WideAngleSeven

There is nothing of interest in this photo it’s just too busy. Now lets take the camera and change the orientation to portrait (turning the camera sideways).

WideAngleEight

Thats better, all of a sudden by just changing the orientation of the camera the image improves. Its less busy and the composition falls into place. Now the boat and docking poles become the points of interest. The image was improved greatly just by turning the camera 90 degrees and I didn’t even have to move my feet :)

So whats the moral of the story Joe ?

The moral of the story is don’t stand still and use your zoom to vary your images. Take the time to move around your subject and shoot it from all different angles. I really think you will be very surprised at the results you get with your images.

Standard
Joseph, New York, Photography

You Asked For It – RAW vs. .Jpg

This is the sixth installment of the “You Asked For It” series and today I would like to discuss RAW files versus .jpg files or why you should shoot RAW.  Sometimes I don’t practice what I preach and I shoot .jpg files with my Fuji cameras.  For some reason I am just in love with the .jpg files that come out of the Fuji’s.

Okay now that I confessed to you that sometimes I cheat and shoot jpg files you are probably wondering why the hell should I listen to you Joe you’re a cheater !  To be perfectly honest I only cheat when I specifically need smaller file sizes which is one advantage to shooting .jpg (the file sizes are considerably smaller which means you can fit more images on your memory card).

JPG Files

So lets get down to the nitty gritty and figure out what in the world I am talking about when I say .jpg file.  If you own a DSLR camera and you look in your owners manual you will find that your camera is capable of recording two or more types of files and one of those choices will be .jpg.  When you set your camera to record .jpg files you are telling your camera to employ a compression scheme to the file and most likely to correct for some minor lens distortions such as pincushion distortion or chromatic aberration.  You are probably saying Joe what does that mean in english.  Pincushion distortion is typically found on wide angle lenses where vertical and horizontal lines seem to bow or curve.  Chromatic aberration is when you magnify your image you see a color fringe around the edges if your subject.

So why should i stop shooting .jpg images if the camera corrects for all these things Joe ?

Because you have less control over your final image when you shoot .jpg images. While the camera is correcting for these distortions and busy compressing these files so you can fit more images on your memory card it is processing your files. Processed files have less latitude when you try to adjust different parameters in Lightroom or whatever program you are using to import these images into your computer.

RAW Files

RAW files are exactly as the name implies unprocessed uncompressed raw data.  When you set your camera to shoot RAW you will notice a few things.  The first will be your memory card will hold a lot less images.  If your card held 1000 images of .jpg it will probably drop down to about 250 RAW images, so these files are a great deal larger than .jpg files.  The next thing you will probably notice if you are someone who shoots sports and has their camera set to continuous high speed mode (I like to call these spray and shoot) is that you will be able to shoot a lot less images before your camera buffer fills.  Once again in plain English your camera buffer holds the images until they can be written to your memory card.  If you are a sports photographer who holds the shutter button down to have the camera continually fire to record a sequence of shots your camera will fill its buffer faster with RAW files (because they are larger) and when the buffer fills your camera will slow down until it clears the buffer enough for more shots to be held in it.  In plainer english if you shoot .jpg files and your camera had a buffer capacity of lets say 25 continuous shots before slowing down you might get 10 shots with your camera set to RAW.

So enough talk and lets get some examples.  What I am going to show you is a couple of examples of images that I have purposely under exposed by four stops. Please take note that all of these images will say .jpg because when I export images from Lightroom I have it set to convert them into .jpgs but please be assured that some of these files were RAW before being converted.

TutTwoNEF.jpg
This file is from my Nikon D610 and was underexposed intentionally. My camera has dual SD card slots so it is simple to shoot Raw on one card and .jpg on the other card simultaneously. Most cameras with single card slots can do this also but RAW and .jpg images will be recorded on the same card.

TutFour.jpg

This is a .jpg file as shot in camera and was adjusted in Lightroom to bring it back to the correct exposure.  No other corrections were applied such as color tint or anything other than exposure.  Notice how the colors just are not quite correct and all the detail in the sand is lost.  I want you to take notice of color of the boat on the left and the trees in the background.  This photo might be good for emergency purposes but there is nothing in this photo that was retained that was faithful to the scene I saw.   This photo probably could be adjusted a little more but its kind of like when you make a mistake painting and the more you mess with it to correct it the worse you make it.  Why would you want to spend more time post processing your images if you make a mistake with your exposure just for the sake of fitting more images on your memory card.  Memory cards are pretty cheap just buy a larger capacity one.

TutFourNEF.jpg

Here is the same image that was shot in RAW.  No other corrections were applied such as color tint or anything other than exposure. Notice the sand is more accurate in color along with the sky.  The sand retained a little more detail than the .jpg file.  Also take a look at the hull of the boat on the left which is the correct shade of blue.  Notice the trees in the background are green and not bluish/black like in the .jpg file.

Please go out with your camera and experiment with RAW files.  Raw files can be called different things by various camera manufacturers .  When I used to have my Olympus OMD E-M5 camera the RAW files had an .orf extension and on Nikon they are called .NEF.  Whatever they are called you should learn to use them because they are much more flexable than .jpg files.  Most people think after you take the photo your job is done but if you really want to take your work to the next level you will have to learn how to correctly post process your images.  Post processing is really where a RAW file shines.

Ansel Adams was a great photographer but he was also a master of the darkroom.  He would spend hours tweaking his images in the darkroom to achieve the exact look he wanted.  In todays world we have the luxury of RAW files and programs like Lightroom to take the place of the darkroom.

For those who are interested here is a video of Greg Cazillo fine tuning a RAW file from a Nikon D3x 24 megapixel camera.  It’s interesting how the image transforms from the out of camera shot to the finished product.  I hope you will take the time to watch it.

Chromatic Aberration

Pincushion Distortion

Standard
Joseph, New York, Photography

Hand Fan

FanPlant

 

Nikon D610 and Nikon 50mm f/1.8 G AF-S Lens – 1/3200 @ f/1.8 – ISO 100

Please note: beginning Friday September 19th The Visual Chronicle posting schedule will change to three times weekly instead of daily. I will post photos on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and on Fridays the weekly tutorial will continue. I would like to thank all of my followers and viewers that stopped by daily for the past two years and I would love to continue posting every day but truth be told between Monochromia and The Visual Chronicle it is just taking up too much of my time. It’s time to relax a bit after all I am retired :)

Standard
Joseph, New York, Photography

Graffiti

OMP

Nikon D610 and Nikon 70-300mm AF-S G VR Lens – 1/80 @ f/5.6 – 280mm – ISO 400

Please note: beginning Friday September 19th  The Visual Chronicle posting schedule will change to three times weekly instead of daily. I will post photos on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and on Fridays the weekly tutorial will continue. I would like to thank all of my followers and viewers that stopped by daily for the past two years and I would love to continue posting every day but truth be told between Monochromia and The Visual Chronicle it is just taking up too much of my time. It’s time to relax a bit after all I am retired :)

Standard